It was around 500 years ago that the Emirate of Kano’s reign was challenged by a neighbouring kingdom in northern Nigeria. At the time, explains Nasiru Wada Khalil, a Kano-based researcher on Oral and Intangible Cultural Heritages of Kano Palace, the Emir of Kano was king of one of the most important trading cities and kingdoms in Sub-Saharan Africa. And the neighbouring Emir of Katsina had decided to wage war at Eid al-Fitr, the celebration at the end of Ramadan.
In an exuberant show of support in Kano, thousands of local leaders dressed in their turbans and rode out on their gilded horses – decked in leather saddles made from the region’s skilled craftsmen and silver stirrups from local metalworkers – next to their emir. The display of strength and solidarity worked, and the Emir of Katsina backed down, says Khalil. From that time forward, each and every Sallah (Eid) day, the Durbar is staged. ‘The Durbar in Kano has been in existence for 500 years plus,’ Khalil continues, ‘and our local leaders pledge their allegiance to the emir by taking an oath that they are not going to retreat in case of warfare.’
The tradition of the Durbar continues today in northern Nigeria. Besides Kano – which is the country’s second-largest city with nearly five million people and one of West Africa’s oldest kingdoms – the event has spread to neighbouring states throughout the region. It now includes many of the ancient emirates of the Hausa people, such as Kazaure, Katsina and Sokoto. In each case, local leaders ride out with their respective emir to pledge their support.
As much as an act of political and community support it is also a display of the skills and handicrafts that the people of Kano practise ‘every day’, according to Khalil . ‘Just looking at someone on horseback shows you all these things: the weaving, embroidery, tailoring pattern, leatherwork, irons, black- and white-smithing process and even the equestrian activities.’ According to Unesco, which in 2024 added the Durbar in Nigeria to the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, the procession includes around 10,000 men on horses as well as men and women accompanying the parade on foot.
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Normally, the entire event – which occurs twice a year, at Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Kabir – consists of four main processions spread out over various days. Each one begins with a gun salute and ‘unites people of all ethnicities, genders and ages’, according to Unesco. In Kano this year, on the day of Eid, dozens of men in red – part of the palace guard – lined up just outside the 1,000-year-old palace as the 14th emir, Muhammadu Sanusi II, returned from his morning prayers. The guards lit off antique guns that blasted loudly as their traditional leader – dressed in all white and astride a white horse – returned to the palace gate to give his speech. Men in brightly coloured turbans and boys on camelback who were filming on mobile phones held up their fists in a salute of respect, signalling their allegiance to their ruler. But the next day, which is traditionally the largest day of the Durbar, the remainder of the Kano event was called off.
Since 2023, the Kano Durbar has been shortened or cancelled. While the official reason given is ‘security concerns’, most residents say the cancellation is because the emir’s rule is contested by his cousin, Aminu Ado Bayero, who has local supporters as well as the backing of the federal government and maintains that he is the rightful heir to the throne.
Kano residents were disappointed this year, but just 90 kilometres away, hundreds of men gathered on their horses the next day to continue their Durbar with a procession for the Emir of Kazaure, Najib Husaini Adamu. Isah Musa Shamaki, a member of the Kazaure palace guard, dressed in red and green. ‘We do the Durbar every year, because the king uses it as an opportunity to reach out to his people and celebrate with them after the end of Ramadan,’ he says.
Shamaki has been taking part in the Durbar since he was just eight years old, and for the past 25 years he has continued the tradition. ‘I inherited it from my father, and he inherited it from his father,’ he adds. ‘I hope my children will inherit and continue the tradition as well.’ He puts the bridle and saddle on the horse near his home, his son helping him prepare for the big day, before riding off on horseback to pledge allegiance to his emir.
